Success depends on preparation. In the context of equipment, it’s not just about choosing the right gear, it’s about knowing how to use it.

This guide gives a quick overview of common equipment and how to ready it for your first hunt.

Author’s note: Most of the items listed below are optional. It’s up to you to decide what’s essential for your specific hunting style and environment. As you spend more time in the field, you’ll gain a better sense of what you truly need and what’s just extra weight in your pack.

Sturdy clothing

Contrary to what’s shown on YouTube, your hunting clothes don’t have to be the latest in high-end fashion from a well-known hunting brand. It does, however, need to share the same basic qualities – It needs to be hard wearing, abrasion resistant, and most importantly, it needs to be comfortable. Will natural colours or camouflage help you to blend into the environment? Definitely. Is it a deal breaker if you wear something off-colour? No, its not. As some users on social media love to point out – “More deer have been taken in jeans and a flannel shirt than in the latest high-tech camo.” Don’t worry about keeping up with the latest fashion trends. Instead, shift your focus towards planning for your upcoming hunt, learn how to read animal sign, and practice minimising your acoustic and visual signature in the bush. This will have a far greater impact on your chances of success than your choice of clothing.

If you’re doing it tough financially, wearing your existing clothing or buying cheap surplus gear from Aussie disposals can be a great way to shave some money off your hunting budget. When selecting your clothes, try to select a full-length pants and sleeve option, as the shine from exposed skin may alert a deer to your presence and cause them to run away. It will also reduce your risk of cuts and abrasions when moving through thick scrub.

When preparing for your trip, its important to pack a water-resistant layer, even if it stays behind in your car, as you never know when you’ll need it. The same logic should also be applied to a warm outer layer of clothing, such as a jumper or hoody.

Ghillie suits: Many new hunters get over-excited when looking at gear options and want to invest in military-inspired gear, such as a full-body ghillie suit or balaclava-style head covering. I would recommend against this, as it will be far more detrimental to your performance than you might think. This is due to the limitations it may impose on your vision and hearing, along with the heightened risk of overheating your body due to heat retention.

Blaze orange clothing: When hunting on public land in NSW, it is a legal requirement to wear an item of blaze orange clothing on the upper part of your body. This was established as a safety measure to improve the visibility of hunters. Don’t worry too much about the colour affecting your hunt, as deer have dichromatic vision. This means they only have two cones in their eyes which allow them to see blue and green, but not red. To them, colours that we see as red, pink, and orange will appear as shades of yellow, brown and grey. What deer will notice, however, is your movement. To quote another common saying from the internet – “Your best camouflage will be to sit down and be quiet.”

Cleaning your hunting gear: Aside from colours, camouflage patterns, and movement, your smell will be one of the biggest giveaways to your presence. With that in mind, save the heavy-scented deodorants and aftershaves for your next date and try to wash your hunting clothes in a natural-smelling laundry detergent that contains eucalyptus. This will mask your smell to animals, while still allowing your clothes to remain clean and friendly on your own nose.

Hat and face coverings

As noted above, unnatural shine or reflections from your skin, or in this case, your clothing and accessories, will give away your presence to animals. With that in mind, you’re better off leaving items like sunglasses in your vehicle, and instead, opt for a hat to minimise the impact of the sun on your vision.

A wide brim hat, such as a giggle or boonie hat, will be your best option. This will break up the visible shape of your face and aid in concealment. It will also provide you with the maximum amount of shade to protect your skin and maintain your vision. A cap or a beanie may also be a suitable compromise, pending your personal preferences. Either option can be coupled with a cheap fishing-style neck buff to cover your face when stalking an animal.

Boots

Much like clothing, your hunting boots should be selected with comfort, durability, and ideally water resistance in mind. The advantage of buying a purpose-built hiking or hunting boot is that you get all of these features in a lightweight package, making steep or uneven terrain easier to navigate and far less exhausting. Of course, this comes at a cost – most mid-range options start around $250 and go up from there.

Regardless of what boots you choose, proper fit and good ankle support are essential. Without this, a simple trip or fall could lead to a serious injury.

That brings me to one of the most common questions I see on social media:
“Can I hunt in steel-capped boots?”
Technically, yes. You can wear steel caps or whatever else you prefer. But you’ll increase your risk of blisters, ankle injury, and fatigue. It’s up to you to weigh the pro’s and con’s and make a decision. As someone who’s experienced this before, I recommend that you save yourself the misery and buy a more suitable pair of boots.

Treating your boots: Some boots will require special treatments to improve their abrasion and water resistant qualities. Treatments may include the application of polish, bees wax, or water-proof sprays. Refer to the manufacturers instructions on their website to determine which treatment should be applied to your boots. Alternatively, ask your local retail store for details at the time of purchase.

Blister prevention:

• Always “Break in” your boots before heading into the field. This will reduce your risk of blisters and other foot-related issues.
• If you intend to trek vast distances, apply blister prevention bandages to your heels and the other friction points on your feet beforehand. This will further mitigate your risk of injury.

Socks

Nothing will stop your hunt quicker than an injury to your feet. Aside from boots, your socks will also play a vital role in keeping your feet safe and healthy. 

The best sock material to purchase is merino wool. This material will wick moisture away from your feet, keeping them dry. It will also help to regulate your temperature in cold weather conditions, and resist odour and bacterial build up due to it being a natural antimicrobial material.

At the end of each days hunt, I recommend that you remove your boots and give your feet, socks, and boots time to air out. Why is this so important? The build up of moisture and bacteria can lead to serious health complications like trench foot. For those of you who are game, google that term for a greater understanding of what this condition is and how severe it can be if left untreated. Fair warning – that search recommendation is not for the faint of heart.

Planning notes: Always pack an extra pair of socks. This will give you time to clean or air out one pair, while wearing the other.

Gaiters

Gaiters are protective coverings that are worn over your boots and the lower portion of your legs. They are designed to reduce the amount of water, mud, insects, and debris that enter your clothing, or attach to your body. They also offer an additional layer of protection against cuts, abrasions, and snake bites.

Gaiters are especially useful when moving through thick scrub, wet grass, or rocky terrain, as they will help you to stay dry, quiet, and comfortable. When purchasing a set, I recommend that you look for a split-piece design with a zipper or Velcro. That way, you won’t need to take off your boots every time you want to remove your gaiters. The best models will come with built-in eyelets to attach an underfoot strap. This strap will hold the gaiters in place and prevent ticks, leeches, and other insects from crawling under the material and making you uncomfortable. Spraying a DEET insect spray, like bushman’s, over your boots and gaiters will also assist in the reduction of these pests. 

Overall, I consider gaiters to be an essential piece of kit for all hunters. However, if you want a cheaper DIY solution, you can always tape your lower pant leg around the ankle of your boot. This won’t stop you from getting wet, but it will reduce the amount of insects that you have to contend with.

Gloves

A good quality set of gloves will be an invaluable tool to protect your hands from sustaining damage. On face value, this may seem like a minor problem. However, issues can arise quickly if these wounds are left untreated and infection starts to take hold. To give an example, on one of my hunting trips to the south coast of NSW, I forgot to pack my gloves. After spending the day wading through chest high-thistles and blackberry bushes, my hands were badly torn up. That evening, I shot a deer and butchered it. By the following afternoon, I was barely able to make a fist due to the swelling and infection in my hands. Long story short, it didn’t matter how well I washed my hands throughout this hunt, or how often I had cleaned my wounds, the damage had already been done.

Thankfully, I was able to treat this infection properly at home and it did not lead to further health complications. You may not be so lucky. Don’t take any chances. Buy yourself a good quality set of general purpose gloves and use them wherever possible.

In addition to the above, there are two other types of gloves that you should pack for your hunt. The first is a set of food-safe nitrile gloves which can be used for butchering. Due to their brittle nature, I would suggest you bring a dozen or so of these gloves to act as replacements. The second set are sterilized nitrile medical gloves. This pair should remain sealed in the original protective packaging and stay tucked away in your first aid kit for emergency use.

Hunting Pack | Rucksack | Gear bags

No matter what you choose to call it, your hunting pack will be one of the most important parts of your hunting kit. As with everything else on this list, you can choose to go all out with the price tag, or opt for a cheaper, no-frills option. The choice is entirely yours…

When choosing a pack, there a number of considerations to keep in mind: the storage capacity (size), load bearing capacity (maximum weight), and optional features, such as weapon carrying systems, adjustable waist belts, and reinforced load bearing shelves. While these features are not strictly necessary, they can be useful in reducing fatigue and improving your overall comfort.

Most hunters will instinctively purchase the largest pack within their price range. Unfortunately, there’s one downside to this approach that many people overlook – That’s the tendency to want to stuff it full to the brim because you’ve got plenty of room. Do your best to avoid this at all costs.

An easy way to avoid this tendency is to perform a “comfort test”. The basic concept is this: A few days before your trip, load up your pack* and go for a short walk around your neighbourhood. This will give you the opportunity to adjust your shoulder straps and hip belt, and see how you handle the weight of your gear. If you find that its too heavy, empty your pack at home and scrutinise what you’re carrying. Most of the time, you’ll find that you’ve loaded it with a bunch of unnecessary luxury items.  Put them aside and decide which of these are worth the added strain on your body and which should be left at home.

*This shouldn’t need to be said, but leave your rifle or bow at home when performing the comfort test in a public area.

General advice:

• The best packs will come with a hip belt and chest clips. This will take the weight off your shoulders, redistribute it around your waist, and prevent the load from shifting as you walk. Take the time to adjust these straps to your body. This will improve your comfort and prevent unnecessary strain on your body.
• Learning how to pack your gear properly will further improve your comfort by ensuring proper weight distribution.
• If using a large pack to carry out your meat, buy a pack liner or a large dry bag to prevent blood and other liquids contaminating the inside of your pack. To clean it, simply remove this inner lining and allow it to soak in hot soapy water. This approach will ensure that you don’t end up with a stained, foul-smelling pack.
• Pack covers, while water resistant, can be noisy and may be blown away in strong winds. In these circumstances, a second pack liner will be a better option to keep your gear dry.

Binoculars | Spotting Scopes

Every hunter should carry a high-quality set of binoculars. Compared to a rifle scope, binoculars offer a much safer way to scan distant terrain without the risk of unintentionally pointing your firearm at someone in your line of sight. The dual lenses also provides a wider field of view, making it easier to monitor a broad area while waiting to spot signs of animal movement.

One disadvantage, when compared with a spotting scope is the relatively lower amount of zoom that you will have on hand. The most common zoom levels for binoculars range between 6x – 10x zoom, whereas spotting scopes generally sit between 60x – 80x zoom. This makes spotting scopes far more desirable for hunters who scan vast distances across mountains and valleys. The trade off for the extra magnification is reduced practicality. Spotting scopes must be used in conjunction with a tripod, or braced between your knees when sitting down, as even the slightest twitch or movement will disrupt your view. This makes binoculars a better choice for spot and stalk style hunts, or when scouting thick scrub, as the lower levels of zoom will have far less impact on your vision while standing or reacting to signs of nearby movement. 

No matter which option you choose, the most important aspect to consider when comparing optics is the quality of the glass. Cheaper products may seem ok at close distances, but as you start to look further away the image will become blurry and hazy. As a general rule, high-quality glass will remain crystal clear at extended distances (after taking into account minor adjustments for parallax error). To use a practical example, when scouting for deer, a high-quality set of binoculars would allow you to quickly decide if you’re looking at a tree stump surrounded by tall grass, or if its the hind quarters of a deer that’s browsing for feed.

Purchasing notes:

• One of cheapest upgrades for your hunting gear will be the purchase of a binocular harness. Unlike the typical strap, a harness will remove the added weight from your neck and spread it across your shoulders like a normal bag. Not only is this more comfortable, the binoculars will be more secure and far less prone to breakage.
• Before purchasing any optics, always ask if you can test them out in natural lighting conditions. The hallmark of a high-quality optic is being able to see clearly in low light, so timing your trip for the late afternoon will give you the best conditions to compare products.
• When doing your test, don’t focus on closer objects. The real test of quality will be looking at objects further off into the distance.
• Its important to think of your optics as an investment. Provided that you take good care of them, most high-quality optics can be passed down for many generations.
• A second-hand set of high-quality binoculars will always be a better option when compared with a newer set of budget-priced binoculars.

Firearms | Archery Equipment

By the time you start packing your gear for your first hunt, you should already be proficient in your use of a firearm or bow. If you’re not, you should hold off and get more practice, as honestly, you’ll be more of a threat to the safety of yourself and others, as opposed to the species that you’re hunting…

Once you’ve achieved a solid level of proficiency, make sure that you choose the appropriate firearm and calibre for your targeted species, or poundage bow, arrow, and broadhead combination. This will ensure that an ethical kill can be produced on the animal and it will minimise your risk of having to track down a wounded animal.

Firearms

The following list outlines the recommended minimum calibre sizes for each game species. This information was supplied by the NSW Department of Primary Industries Game Licencing Unit.

• Hog deer, Fallow deer, Chital deer, Feral goat and Feral pig – .243 Winchester 80 grain projectile, or 12 gauge single-rifled slug.
• Rusa deer, Red deer, Wapiti and Sambar deer – .270 Winchester 130 grain projectile, or 12 gauge single-rifled slug.
• Wild dog – .222 Remington 50 grain projectile, or Load of 000.
• Fox and feral cat – .22 Rifle 40 grain projectile, or Load of BB
• Hare and rabbit – .22 Rifle 40 grain projectile, or No. 3.
• Duck and pheasant – 12 gauge No. 3.
• Quail – No. 10.

Before going on your hunt, don’t forget to ‘sight in’ your firearm. If at any point your firearm is dropped or sustains a heavy impact, your point of aim should be rechecked to ensure proper accuracy.

Field maintenance: Always pack a clean rag, and either a small can of wd40 or a drip bottle of gun cleaner. When you return to your camp for the evening, oil the rag and apply a thin layer to the metal surfaces of your firearm. This will prevent rust from forming on the bluing, which is the dark protective coating found on most firearms.

Don’t forget to pack: The correct ammunition, bolt, magazine, and sling for your firearm. Most of us have made this mistake at least once!

Archery equipment

The following list outlines the recommended minimum draw weight for each game species. This information was supplied by the NSW Department of Primary Industries Game Licencing Unit.

• Rabbits, hares, feral cats, foxes – 30 lbs (13.5 kgs).
• Wild dog, feral goat – 40 lbs (17.5 kgs).
• Feral pig, chital deer, fallow deer – 45 lbs (20.0 kgs).
• Rusa deer, red deer, sambar deer, wapiti – 50 lbs (22.5 kgs).
• California quail, partridge, pheasant, peafowl, turkey – 45 lbs (20.0 kgs).

Before going on your hunt, don’t forget to ‘sight in’ your bow. If at any point your bow is dropped or sustains a heavy impact, your point of aim should be rechecked to ensure proper accuracy.

Broadhead requirements: When hunting on public land, all hunters must equip their arrows with a broadhead of no less than 25 millimetres in width. This broadhead must have a minimum of two sharpened cutting blades. Fixed and mechanical broadheads are both legal in NSW state forests.

Safety note: Always inspect your carbon fibre arrows before use. This can be done by flexing the arrow in different directions and listening for the sound of cracks, while looking for any signs of breakage or split fibre strands. If defects are found, throw the arrow away. Failure to do so can lead to a serious life threatening injury.

Don’t forget to pack: Arrows, broadheads, quiver, and your release aid.

Technology

*Update: All models of iPhone from 14 onwards now share this same satellite messaging functionality.

A Personal locator beacon, often referred to as a PLB, is a compact device that is used to transmit a satellite distress signal to search and rescue services in the event of an emergency. This is particularly useful in remote areas where phone or radio communication is unreliable.

Each device is registered to the user. Once activated, search and rescue services first try to contact the registered owner to verify whether assistance is required, or if an accidental activation has occurred. If contact cannot be made with the registered owner, they will attempt to contact the person listed as the emergency contact. Pending the response from this person, Police, Ambulance, or State Emergency Services (SES) may attend the site and attempt to locate the person near the source of the distress signal.

Before going on your hunt, its important to verify that your details are kept up to date and that you have notified your emergency contact of your intent to hunt. Ideally, you will provide them with the specifics of your planned trip, such as dates and locations, and keep them updated as your plans change. The battery on your PLB should be tested every month to ensure that it has retained its charge. Instructions on how to do this can be found in the products user manual.

Important note: The battery testing process will be different from the devices normal activation process. Improper or accidental use of this device may result in fines or prosecution.

Thermal | Night vision

Thermal and night vision will enhance a hunter’s ability to detect game animals in low-light or no-light conditions, but they operate in distinct ways. Night vision amplifies existing ambient light, such as moonlight, to produce a visible image. This makes it effective in open environments with some natural light. In contrast, thermal imaging detects heat signatures emitted by animals, allowing hunters to see warm-bodied animals even through light vegetation or complete darkness.

While thermal is highly effective for spotting hidden or camouflaged animals and for blood trailing, night vision typically provides better detail for target identification. Many professional pest controllers use a combination of both to maximize their effectiveness when culling animals on private property.

Legal requirements: In NSW, hunting on public land with a firearm or bow is only permitted during daylight hours. Specifically, 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset. Night hunting with dogs for pigs is allowed in some state forests, but is subject to specific regulations and written permission conditions. Firearms and bows must be stored in accordance with safe transport requirements if hunting with dogs at night on public land. Compliance officers will often fine and prosecute those who breach this rule, and are permitted to confiscate any equipment used during this licencing breach, including dogs, firearms, and vehicles. 

Range finder

With a simple press of a button, this device automatically calculates the approximate distance from where you are standing to your selected target in the viewfinder. Unfortunately, there are limitations on what these devices can do. For instance, you cannot guarantee an accurate measurement at the upper end of your devices quoted maximum distance and you cannot rely on it to function properly in thick scrub. The latter is due to the interference of your lasers direct line of sight to your target by trees and shrubs.

On a positive note, many of these devices come with built-in 2x magnification, making it a handy tool to quickly identify and range a target in open areas. With this information you can manually adjust your rifle optic or use “hold over” to make an accurate shot on an animal.

Flashlights | Torches | Headlamps

A sturdy, high-quality flashlight should be considered a mandatory part your gear – especially when hunting on public land. In the mountains, you will be surprised just how quickly sunlight disappears at the end of the day. If you’re not prepared, you could easily find yourself in a potentially life threatening situation.

If you’d like to support Oz Fish and Game, please consider purchasing your next flashlight using this Olight affiliate link.

Emergency and First Aid

Your hunting pack should include a thorough, well-thought-out first aid kit. The exact contents should be left up to your discretion. However, I recommend that you only include items you can use safely and competently use.

A few of the items I carry are listed below:

• Anti-bacterial wound cleaning solutions – i.e. alcohol wipes or antiseptic sprays. Note: Failure to treat open wounds may lead to cellulitis, which is a potentially life threatening bacterial skin infection.
• Sterilized gauze and bandages.
• Non-sterilised bandages – i.e. a triangle bandage and multiple snake bandages.
• Band-Aids, adhesive wound patches, and butterfly adhesive strips.
• Mole skin or blister prevention patches.
• Multiple sets of sterilized gloves.
• Medical tape, safety pins, and/or butterfly bandage clips.
• Saline eye cleaning solution and an “eye cup”.
• Trauma sheers (medical scissors).
• Personal medications – i.e. inhalers, heart medications, etc.
• Other medications – i.e. Anti-histamines, gastrointestinal tablets, paracetamol/ibuprofen, and water purification tablets.
• Tweezers – Used to remove ticks.
• DEET insect repellent.

Water

One of the greatest threats to your safety and wellbeing will be dehydration. As you physically exert yourself by trudging over mountains and through steep unforgiving terrain, you’ll shed water and minerals from your body in the form of sweat. To maintain your health and ongoing performance, this needs to be replaced by adding water and electrolytes back into your system.

As a general rule, you should carry a minimum of 2-3L of water while actively participating in a hunt. An additional 2-3 L should be stored in your vehicle for a single day hunt, with an added 2-3L factored in for each additional day you intend to remain in the field. This surplus of water will cover you in three possible emergency scenarios:

• You overexert yourself or the weather is warmer that you expected,
• You need to provide aid to another hunter or hiker who is suffering from dehydration, or;
• Your vehicle is overheating and you need to fill your radiator and header tank in order to make it back to town.

Storing a large amount of water, then decanting it into small containers may seem like a massive pain in the backside. However, you’ll understand the importance if you ever get caught without it.

Electrolytes: Salts and other important minerals can be easily added back into to your system by dropping a few hydrolyte tablets (or equivalent) into your water bottle at the start of each day, or by taking it when you return to your campsite or vehicle in the afternoon.

Food

High-quality pleasant tasting food will not only provide nourishment, it will prevent gastrointestinal upset and increase your morale. Any signs of ‘gastro’ should be taken seriously, as in severe cases the rapid dehydration of your body could lead to life threatening complications, such as cramps, shock, kidney failure, or seizures. The addition of junk food or excessive alcohol further heightens your risk, as does your geographical isolation from civilisation.

Now, I’m not going to lecture you on eating healthy and limiting your alcohol consumption. You’re all adults and that’s your call to make. However, I recommend that you make sure your firearms are safely locked away before breaking out your booze. Otherwise, you could face significant legal consequences if you’re caught handling your firearms while intoxicated. More importantly, a failure to secure your firearms will put the safety of yourself and others in jeopardy.

In terms of morale, the impact of taste is significantly underrated. As you face adversity, such as days of cold and wet weather, hard treks, or unsuccessful stalks, your willingness to continue the hunt will slowly decline. Good tasting food and the warmth of a cooked meal will often be enough to improve your mindset and allow you to press forward the following day.

Like water, the amount of food you bring should be adjusted based on your activity levels. However, an additional 1 day supply is always recommended in case of an emergency.

Butchering equipment

Knives

A sharp, high-quality knife is worth its weight in gold when butchering an animal. There’s a wide variety of options available on the market and each has its own advantages. If you’d prefer a full-sized knife, my recommendation is that you purchase a boning knife. The curved rigid blade will provide you with greater control when manoeuvring through tight spaces like the chest cavity. It’s also versatile enough to be used for deboning legs, or trimming fat and sinew. If you’re nervous about sharpening your knives, you can opt for something with a replaceable blade like the Havalon Piranta, or alternatively, you can pay a small fee and have a professional sharpen your knives for you.

Once you’ve selected a model, the two most important factors to consider are hygiene and maintenance. A sharp knife is an efficient knife. Provided that you handle the blade with care and respect, it will allow you to process a carcass in a safe and efficient manner by eliminating the need for excessive force or dangerous movements. Best practice will be to clean and sharpen your knives after each use. This will ensure that knives are always ready for use and are not contaminated by harmful bacteria. If your equipment is not properly cleaned, this bacteria can introduce off-smells or flavours into your meat and may cause it to spoil more quickly. Worst case scenario, this cross-contamination could also make you violently ill. To avoid this, always use hot soapy water to clean your knives and other butchering equipment after each use.

Tomahawks | Bone saws

Similar to knives, tomahawks (hatchets) and bone saws are an effective way to cut through the connective tissue around joints, such as the knees or the spine. Making use of these tools will minimise the wear on the cutting edge of your knives, allowing them to remain sharper for longer. Personally, I’ve never used a tomahawk for this purpose. However, I have used a veterinarian’s bone saw on multiple occasions and it worked quite well once I overcame the learning curve.

Bone saw tip: Like sawing a piece of wood, brace the limb with your body and use firm downward strokes to establish a cut, or channel in your desired cutting location. Once a channel has been established, run the saw backwards and forwards as normal. You do not need to apply excessive force when cutting. The serrated blade will do the hard work for you.

Game bags

Most hunters use “game bags” to cool down their meat and avoid contamination from insects and debris. A far cheaper alternative is to purchase calico bags that are used for Christmas hams. These can be purchased just about anywhere from October to February each year, and can be washed and reused multiple times.

Salt

While not butchering equipment per-se, salt is used to preserve the hide, or fur, in the period between removing it from the animal and preparing it for tanning.

Iodized salt should be avoided, as it contains anti-caking agents which add bulk (volume) to the salt container. Unfortunately, this additive does nothing to draw out the moisture from the hide, which is the intended purpose of the salt. The more effective you are in removing moisture, the less bacteria will be present. This, along with proper cold storage will ensure that bacterial growth is stunted. This helps preserve the integrity of the hide.

If using a pickling solution prior to tanning, iodized salt may also discolour the hide and potentially interfere with the pickling process. This interference occurs for two reasons: First of all, this type of salt tends to gather as ‘grit’ at the bottom of the pickling container, instead of dissolving into the liquid. The second is due to the addition of iodine, which acts as a buffer against the acids. While it can still technically be used, you will require a significantly larger quantity to counteract the acids. This makes the pickling process far more costly than using normal salt.

In summary, if you want to buy a cheaper and more effective product, read the label at the time of purchase, and stick with non-iodized salt.

Field notes: Salt can also be applied to leeches to remove them from your skin.

Health, safety, and hygiene

The following items should be considered to ensure your health and safety at your camp site, or out in the field:

Field pack

• Hearing protection – i.e. ear muffs or ear plugs. This will prevent hearing damage, especially when using large calibre firearms.
• Soap and extra water. Useful for cleaning yourself and your gear.
• Emergency whistle and signalling mirror. This can be used to signal for help in the event of an emergency.
• Emergency blanket. This product will allow you to maintain a safe core body temperature in the event of an emergency. Some models come in blaze orange and can be used to signal for help.

Camp site

• Fuel – Enough fuel for your vehicle, generator, and/or cooking appliances.
• Esky | Refrigerator – Always ensure you have enough space and cooling capacity to chill the meat from your targeted species.
• Cooking equipment and utensils.
• Camping gear – If staying overnight, the use of good quality camp gear will make your recovery and downtime far more enjoyable. When purchasing a sleeping bag, don’t forget the listed thermal ratings are designed to keep you alive, not warm and comfortable. If your suffer from the cold, consider purchasing a thermal liner for your sleeping bag. This will be a cost-effective way to increase your warmth and insulate yourself from the cooler weather.
• Toilet paper.
• Shovel – Used to bury your biodegradable waste, including the above.
• Toiletries.
• Bin bags – Don’t be a grub, take your rubbish with you!

Optional tools

While not required, the following tools can be used to make your life easier:

• Electrical tape – Used to repair everyday items, such as backpack straps.
• Secateurs – Used to cut away thick brush, i.e., blackberries, to retrieve game animals, such as rabbits and pigs.
• Game calls – There are a wide variety of game calls on the market which are effective in drawing in an animal for an easier shot. Some of these are electronic kits with built-in speakers, while others require manual operation, such as rattle sticks, reed callers, and whistles.

Prohibited items

The following items are not permitted to be used when hunting on NSW public land:

• Tree stands – Any mobile or fixed stand that elevates a hunter above the ground.
• Unregistered vehicles – This includes motorcycles and ATVs.
• Horses – While horses can be ridden in NSW state forests, you are not permitted to hunt from one, as they are considered to be a mode of transport like a car or motorcycle. As per your licencing conditions, you must not hunt from a vehicle. You must also ensure that your firearm is secured and concealed from members of the public while it is being transported. This isn’t practical on a horse.

Before your hunt

Before you head out on your first hunt, make sure you’ve done the following:

• Practice using your gear – Some equipment is less user-friendly than others. Always test out new gear in a controlled environment before taking it out in the field. This will ensure that it functions as intended and you’re familiar with the how to operate it. If you’ve ever set up a newer complex tent in the middle of the night, you’ll understand why this is so important.
• Build redundancy into your kit – As the saying goes – “Two is one, one is none.” Always pack smaller useful items into your car or your kit to minimise your risk of hunt-ending gear failure. For example, a cigarette lighter or a pack of matches will get you out of trouble if the piezoelectric starter in your cooker dies, or if you need to light a fire to stay warm. Electrical tape can be used as a temporary repair to hold together backpack straps if a plastic clip fails.
• Check the condition of any pre-owned equipment – Older equipment should be checked at regular intervals to ensure that it remains in serviceable condition. For example, check that your batteries hold charge, tents and swags remain water tight, and your vehicle is in reliable and roadworthy condition.
• Check bookings and licences – Failure to hold an appropriate booking or licence may result in fines and prosecution. It also has a negative impact on the reputation of the broader hunting community.
• Prepare your body – Your body is your greatest asset on a hunt. That doesn’t mean you need to become David Goggins or Cam Haines to be safe and successful. At a minimum, maintain good health and a moderate level of fitness, and always stay aware of how you’re feeling. This is especially important for anyone like me, who has a significant heart condition and pre-existing injuries. The best way to reduce risk is to know your limits and never push beyond them. Alternatively, hunting with a trusted friend or family member can help to mitigate your risk. Finally, the most important advice I can give is to trust your instincts – if something feels off, listen to that gut feeling and call it quits early. It’s better to take a hit to your ego than to risk your life.

Final thoughts

As you gain confidence in your skills, you’ll refine your equipment and adapt your approach to better suit your environment. In the meantime, if you would like some insight into what I pack for a hunt, keep an eye out for my next article – Packing for a single day, or multi-day hunt.

Related articles

Part 1 – Becoming a hunter.
Part 2 – Planning your first hunt.
Part 3 – Scouting a forest – Coming soon.
Part 4 – Preparing your hunting equipment.
Part 5 – Hunter’s field manual – Coming soon.